How to write a cosmetic formula

The Institute of Personal Care Science

7 May 202020:25

EducationalLearning

32 Likes 10 Comments

TLDRIn this informative video, Belinda Carly, the director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, discusses the importance of writing accurate and scalable cosmetic formulas. She explains common mistakes, such as using specific batch sizes and mixing volume with weight measurements, and emphasizes the need for precise ingredient identification and consistent formatting. Carly provides a detailed guide on converting formulas to percentage by weight, specifying trade names and grades, and phasing ingredients properly. She also highlights the significance of including endpoint determination, specific temperatures, and pH adjustment in the formulation process to ensure product consistency and quality across different production scales.

Takeaways

📜 Always write formulas to 100% by weight to allow for easy scaling and batch size adjustments.
📈 Avoid mixing volume and weight measures; convert all ingredients to percentage by weight for consistency.
🔍 Be specific with ingredient names, including trade names and supplier details, to ensure consistency in production.
🌿 Use precise botanical and essential oil names to prevent variation in the final product's quality and characteristics.
📊 Specify the correct pH range for your formula to maintain product quality and stability over time.
🔄 Phase ingredients properly in the formula to prevent confusion and ensure correct mixing order.
🎯 Include clear endpoints and specific temperatures in the method for effective scaling and reproducibility.
🔄 Use low or high shear mixing as appropriate and specify this in the formula for optimal ingredient incorporation.
💧 Adjust pH as needed during production, but specify the target pH in the formula for quality control.
📈 When transferring a formula to a contract manufacturer, ensure that all details are precise to guarantee consistent results.

Q & A

Why is it important to write formulas to 100% by weight?
-Writing formulas to 100% by weight ensures consistency and accuracy when scaling up or down production. It allows for easy conversion of batch sizes and maintains the correct percentage ratio of ingredients, regardless of the final product quantity.
What issue does mixing volume and weight measures in a formula create?
-Mixing volume and weight measures can lead to inaccuracies and inconsistencies when reproducing the formula, especially when scaling production. It's essential to convert everything to a percentage by weight measure for uniformity and ease of calculation.
Why should ingredient names in a formula be specific and unambiguous?
-Specific and unambiguous ingredient names prevent confusion and ensure that the same exact materials are used every time the formula is produced. This is crucial for maintaining the quality, viscosity, and performance of the final product.
How can using trade names or supplier names benefit a cosmetic formula?
-Using trade names or supplier names in a formula ensures that the specific grade of an ingredient is used consistently, leading to a uniform final product. It also helps when working with a contract manufacturer to reproduce the same product accurately.
What is the significance of including a final pH in a cosmetic formula?
-Including a final pH in a formula is important for maintaining product quality and stability over time. A tight pH range at the start of production helps to prevent significant drifts that could lead to shelf-life or stability issues.
Why should the method section of a formula avoid specifying mixing times?
-Mixing times should not be specified in the method section because they can vary depending on the batch size and equipment used. Instead, the method should focus on specific temperatures, shear rates, and endpoints to ensure proper mixing regardless of scale.
What are the advantages of phasing ingredients in a formula?
-Phasing ingredients in a formula helps to organize the production process and prevents ingredients from being overlooked or mixed in the wrong order. It also simplifies the scaling of the formula from small to large batches.
How can specifying low or high shear in a formula help with scale-up procedures?
-Specifying low or high shear in a formula provides clear guidance on the mixing action required for each step, which is essential for achieving the desired texture and consistency of the final product. This information is crucial when scaling up production to ensure that the batch is mixed properly.
What should be the approach to pH adjustment in a formula?
-The approach to pH adjustment in a formula should include a pH adjuster with the instruction to use 'as much as needed' to achieve the specified final pH. This allows for flexibility in production as the exact amount of pH adjuster can vary based on factors such as ingredient variations and water quality.
What is the purpose of having endpoints in each step of the formula method?
-Endpoints in each step of the formula method serve as indicators of when that particular step is complete. They help ensure that the ingredients are combined correctly and that the desired consistency or texture is achieved before moving on to the next step.
How can a cosmetic brand benefit from using a well-structured formula?
-A well-structured formula allows a cosmetic brand to produce consistent, high-quality products regardless of batch size. It simplifies the scaling process from small to large production runs and ensures that the final product meets the desired specifications every time.

Outlines

00:00

📝 Introduction to Formula Writing

This paragraph introduces Belinda Carly, the director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, who discusses the common queries she receives about formula writing. She emphasizes the importance of writing formulas in a way that provides accurate and consistent results, regardless of batch size. Belinda addresses the use of percentages, trade names, and the need for clarity in ingredient selection. She also mentions the availability of free formulation videos and resources, and the aim of the video to help small brands understand how to write effective cosmetic formulas for scalability and consistency.

05:02

📋 Common Mistakes in Formula Writing

In this paragraph, Belinda outlines common mistakes made in formula writing, such as writing formulas for specific batch sizes or quantities, using a mix of volume and weight measurements, and ambiguous ingredient names. She stresses the need for formulas to be written to 100% by weight and using clear, specific names or trade names for ingredients. The paragraph highlights the importance of consistency and the ability to scale up production without compromising product quality.

10:04

🔍 Specifying Ingredients for Consistency

Belinda discusses the importance of specifying ingredients precisely to ensure consistency in the final product. She points out that ambiguous ingredient names can lead to variations in the final product's quality and performance. The paragraph emphasizes the need for clear communication with manufacturers and the use of trade names or supplier names to ensure the same materials are used each time, which is crucial for both small-scale and large-scale production.

15:07

📝 Writing Effective Methods and Processes

This paragraph focuses on the correct way to write methods for formulating cosmetic products. Belinda explains the importance of phasing ingredients, specifying temperatures, and using clear endpoints for each step of the process. She also discusses the need for specifying low or high shear mixing and the avoidance of specific time references in the general method to accommodate different batch sizes and equipment. The paragraph aims to provide a clear understanding of how to write a method that can be easily scaled up or down while maintaining product quality.

20:08

🎯 Finalizing the Formula with pH and Scaling

In the final paragraph, Belinda wraps up the discussion on formula writing by emphasizing the inclusion of pH adjusters and the importance of specifying the final pH range. She provides a revised version of the initial bad formula, now correctly formatted with all ingredients in percentage by weight, specific trade names, and phased ingredients. The paragraph also highlights the inclusion of clear endpoints, specific temperatures, and shear requirements in the method, ensuring the formula's adaptability for any batch size. Belinda encourages viewers to reach out for more information and resources, and she invites feedback and engagement through the YouTube channel.

🚀 Conclusion and Encouragement

Belinda concludes the video by encouraging viewers to transition from using a mix of volume and weight measurements to a consistent weighing method for accuracy. She reiterates the importance of using specific supplier details in formulas to ensure consistency across batches and when working with contract manufacturers. The paragraph ends with a call to action for viewers to subscribe to the YouTube channel for more formulations and resources, and she expresses hope that the video has been helpful for the audience's formulating journey.

Mindmap

Keywords

💡Personal Care Science

Personal Care Science refers to the field of study and practice that focuses on the creation and analysis of personal care products, such as cosmetics and skincare items. In the context of the video, it is the domain of expertise of the speaker, Belinda Carly, who is the director of the Institute of Personal Care Science. She discusses the principles and standards for writing effective and accurate cosmetic formulas, which is crucial for both small and large-scale manufacturers in the personal care industry.

💡Formulation

Formulation refers to the process of creating a recipe or a list of ingredients and their proportions for making a cosmetic product. In the video, the term is central to the discussion, as the speaker explains how to write good formulations by avoiding common mistakes, such as mixing volume and weight measures or not specifying ingredients precisely. A well-written formulation ensures that a product can be consistently produced regardless of batch size.

💡Percentage by Weight

Percentage by weight is a method of specifying ingredients in a formulation where the amount of each ingredient is expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the formula. This approach is recommended in the video because it allows for easy scaling of the formula from small to large batch sizes without losing consistency in the product's composition.

💡Ingredient Ambiguity

Ingredient ambiguity refers to the lack of specificity or clarity in the naming and selection of ingredients in a formulation. This can lead to variations in the final product's quality, as different grades or types of the same ingredient can have different properties. In the video, the speaker warns against using ambiguous terms like 'emulsifying wax' or 'coconut oil' without specifying the exact type or grade, which can result in inconsistencies when the formula is produced by different manufacturers or even by the same manufacturer over time.

💡Trade Names

Trade names are specific brand or product names used for ingredients that help ensure consistency and reproducibility in a formulation. By using trade names, formulators can ensure that the exact same ingredient is used each time the formula is produced, regardless of the manufacturer or the scale of production. In the video, the speaker encourages the use of trade names to avoid ambiguity and to guarantee that the same quality of ingredients is used throughout the product's manufacturing.

💡Phasing

Phasing in the context of formulation refers to the organized grouping and ordering of ingredients based on their role in the product's formulation process. Ingredients are grouped into phases such as 'Phase A', 'Phase B', etc., and the method details the specific actions taken with each phase. This organization helps prevent ingredients from being overlooked or mixed in the wrong order, ensuring a smooth production process. The video emphasizes the importance of phasing for clarity and accuracy in the formulation writing.

💡Endpoints

Endpoints in a formulation method refer to the specific signs or results that indicate a particular step in the production process is complete. These can include achieving a certain texture, color, or consistency. Identifying clear endpoints helps ensure that each step of the formulation process is executed correctly, leading to a consistent final product. The video stresses the importance of including endpoints in the formulation method to guide manufacturers and ensure quality control.

💡Low Shear/High Shear

Low shear and high shear refer to the types of mixing actions used in the manufacturing process of cosmetic products. Low shear mixing typically involves slower, gentler mixing actions that are less likely to cause ingredient breakdown, while high shear mixing uses faster, more intense actions that can break down ingredients more effectively. These terms are important in formulation methods as they dictate the energy input during mixing and can affect the final texture and stability of the product. The video discusses the need for specificity regarding low or high shear mixing in the formulation method to ensure consistency across different production scales.

💡pH Adjustment

pH adjustment is the process of modifying the acidity or alkalinity of a cosmetic formulation to achieve a desired pH level, which is crucial for the product's stability, safety, and efficacy. The final pH should be within a tight range to ensure that the product remains effective and stable over time, even if the pH naturally drifts. In the video, the importance of specifying a final pH in the formulation and adjusting as needed is highlighted, with the recognition that the exact amount of pH adjuster required may vary batch to batch.

💡Scale-up Procedure

A scale-up procedure refers to the process of increasing the production quantity of a product from a smaller batch to a larger one while maintaining the same product quality and consistency. This is a critical aspect of formulation writing as it ensures that the formula can be accurately reproduced in different batch sizes, whether for small-scale production or large-scale manufacturing. The video provides guidance on writing a formulation that is suitable for scale-up, including specifying temperatures, endpoints, and shear types.

💡Contract Manufacturer

A contract manufacturer is a company that produces products for other companies under their own brand names. In the context of the video, the speaker discusses the importance of having a clear and precise formulation that can be handed over to a contract manufacturer to produce the cosmetic product consistently and accurately. The formulation should include all necessary details to ensure that the contract manufacturer can reproduce the product as intended, maintaining the same quality and performance.

Highlights

Belinda Carly, the director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, discusses the importance of writing effective cosmetic formulas and the common mistakes made in formula writing.

Formulas should be written to 100%, not based on a specific batch size or quantity of jars/bottles, to allow for easy scaling up or down.

All formulas should be written in percentage by weight, not a mixture of volume and weight measures, for consistency and accuracy.

Ingredients should be named with specific trade or supplier names to avoid ambiguity and ensure consistency in production.

Ingredients should be phased, with clear instructions for each phase of the formula creation process, to prevent confusion and ensure correct mixing.

The method of creating the formula should include specific temperatures and endpoints, but not specific times, as these can vary with batch size and equipment.

The final pH of the formula should be specified with a tight pH range to account for any drift over time and maintain product quality.

Formulas should be written in a way that is suitable for both small and large batch production, with attention to detail for each ingredient and step.

The use of specific trade names and grades in the formula ensures that the same materials are used every time, which is crucial when working with contract manufacturers.

The importance of specifying the exact type of essential oils and botanical materials is emphasized to avoid batch-to-batch variation in aroma and effectiveness.

The video provides a detailed example of how to rewrite a 'bad' formula into a 'good' one, with clear and precise information for each step and ingredient.

Belinda Carly offers free formulation videos and resources for those interested in learning more about creating cosmetic formulas.

The video is particularly aimed at smaller brands and those just starting out in product formulation, offering practical advice for growth and manufacturing.

The transcript outlines the process of improving a formula from an ambiguous, hard-to-replicate example to a clear, professional standard.

The importance of accurate and consistent formula writing is emphasized for successful scaling of cosmetic products, from small to large batches.

Transcripts

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Cosmetic Formulation Personal Care Science Product Development Small Business Tips Scale-Up Guidance Ingredient Selection Formula Precision Manufacturing Best Practices Quality Control Industry Expertise