Best Vitamin C Forms & Products for Every Skin Type! | Dr. Shereene Idriss
TLDRIn this informative video, Dr. Shireen Idris revisits the science of vitamin C, exploring its benefits for skin health, such as antioxidant protection, collagen production, and pigmentation regulation. She clarifies the differences between active and inactive forms of vitamin C, highlighting L-ascorbic acid's effectiveness but also its potential irritation. Dr. Idris recommends specific products for various skin types and discusses the importance of formulation, stability, and pH in maximizing vitamin C's skin benefits.
Takeaways
- 🍊 Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage caused by environmental factors like sun exposure, pollution, and stress.
- ☀️ It is not an SPF replacement but complements sunscreen by increasing the time skin can be exposed to the sun before reddening, enhancing the skin's natural UVA and UVB defense.
- 💆♀️ Vitamin C is essential for collagen production, aiding two key enzymes in the collagen synthesis pathway, making it crucial for anyone looking to improve skin elasticity and firmness.
- 🏼 It helps even out skin discoloration by reducing copper availability in the skin, which is necessary for melanin production but can lead to hyperpigmentation if overproduced.
- 🧪 There are two main forms of vitamin C: the active form L-ascorbic acid and the inactive forms, which require conversion in the skin to be effective.
- 🚫 L-ascorbic acid, while effective, is not suitable for everyone due to its instability, potential for irritation, and the need for a low pH formulation.
- 🌱 For sensitive or acne-prone skin, inactive forms of vitamin C such as sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) may be preferable due to their stability and less irritating nature.
- 🌟 Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD) is a lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that is stable, highly absorbable, and beneficial for brightening the skin and reducing pigmentation.
- 💰 The choice of vitamin C product should consider factors like stability, pH, potential for irritation, and the specific skin concerns one wishes to address.
- 🛒 When selecting a vitamin C product, be aware of the form of vitamin C used, as some forms are more effective and suitable for certain skin types than others.
- 📚 Ongoing research is necessary to fully understand the benefits and effectiveness of newer forms of vitamin C, such as immunopropyl ascorbyl phosphate (AAP).
Q & A
What is the main topic of Dr. Shireen Idris' video?
-The main topic of the video is the science of vitamin C, including its benefits, different types, and which type is best suited for various skin types.
Why is vitamin C considered beneficial for the skin?
-Vitamin C is beneficial for the skin because it acts as a potent antioxidant, protecting against free radical damage, and helps in collagen production, which is important for maintaining skin elasticity and reducing the signs of aging.
How does vitamin C work in conjunction with sunscreen?
-Vitamin C is not an SPF replacer but it is beneficial to use under sunscreen because it can boost the effects of sunscreen by increasing the amount of time the skin can be exposed to the sun before turning red, and it helps neutralize the effects of UVA and UVB rays more efficiently.
What is the role of vitamin C in collagen production?
-Vitamin C is necessary for collagen production as it activates two enzymes, prolyl hydroxylase and lysyl hydroxylase, which are required for collagen synthesis. It acts as a 'fertilizer' for these enzymes.
How does vitamin C help with skin discoloration?
-Vitamin C helps with skin discoloration by consuming copper in the skin, which is a key element in melanin production. This prevents overproduction of pigmentation, thus helping to even out skin tone.
What are the two forms of vitamin C mentioned in the video?
-The two forms of vitamin C mentioned are the active form, L-ascorbic acid, and the inactive forms, which contain the word 'ascorb' but are converted in the skin to become active.
Why might L-ascorbic acid not be suitable for everyone?
-L-ascorbic acid might not be suitable for everyone because it is less stable, can be irritating to the skin, and requires a specific pH level for absorption. It is also not recommended for oily or acne-prone skin due to its potential to worsen inflammation.
What are some of the top product picks mentioned by Dr. Idris for L-ascorbic acid?
-Some of the top product picks mentioned include SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, Paula's Choice, Timeless 10% and 20% Vitamin C Serum, and CeraVe Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum.
What is the benefit of using a vitamin C ester like sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) for oily or acne-prone skin?
-Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) is beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin because it has been shown to suppress the bacteria on the skin that leads to acne formation, and it is more stable and less irritating than L-ascorbic acid.
What is the difference between L-ascorbic acid and its ester forms, such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD)?
-L-ascorbic acid is the pure form of vitamin C that is more potent but less stable and can be irritating. Ester forms like THD are more stable, lipid-soluble, and have better absorption, making them suitable for sensitive skin and providing benefits like skin brightening and collagen production.
What are some inactive forms of vitamin C and their potential benefits?
-Inactive forms of vitamin C include sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD), and others. They offer various benefits such as stability, less irritation, and potential antioxidant and collagen production properties, but their effectiveness can vary.
Outlines
🌞 Introduction to Vitamin C's Benefits and Types
Dr. Shireen Idris kicks off the video by greeting her audience and introducing the topic: the science of Vitamin C. She mentions that it's been two years since she last covered this subject and intends to revisit it, focusing on different types of Vitamin C and their suitability for various skin types. Before diving into the details, she encourages viewers to subscribe and sign up for her newsletter at pillowtalkderm.com for updates on product releases and educational content. Dr. Idris emphasizes Vitamin C as a potent antioxidant that protects against free radical damage, which can be caused by various environmental factors like sun exposure, pollution, and stress. She outlines the main benefits of Vitamin C, including its role in maintaining collagen and elastin integrity, preventing premature aging, and its importance in collagen production and evening out skin discoloration by regulating copper levels in the skin.
🍊 Understanding L-Ascorbic Acid and Its Application
The second paragraph delves into the specifics of L-ascorbic acid, the active form of Vitamin C. Dr. Idris explains that while it's the most studied and effective form, it's also unstable, potentially irritating, and not suitable for everyone. She advises that a concentration between 3% and 5% is beneficial, while higher concentrations may cause irritation without additional benefits. The instability of L-ascorbic acid is highlighted by its tendency to darken over time, reducing its effectiveness. Dr. Idris also discusses the packaging of such products, criticizing dropper bottles for their potential to increase oxidation. She provides recommendations for products containing L-ascorbic acid, including those from SkinCeuticals, Paula's Choice, Timeless, and CeraVe, noting their concentrations, stabilizing ingredients, and packaging.
🧪 Exploring Inactive Forms of Vitamin C and Their Uses
In the third paragraph, Dr. Idris transitions to discussing the inactive forms of Vitamin C, which offer different benefits and levels of stability and irritation. She begins with Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP), which is stable and can be formulated at a neutral pH, making it less irritating. Although its absorption and conversion rates to L-ascorbic acid are not well-established, SAP has shown benefits for oily and acne-prone skin by suppressing acne-causing bacteria. Dr. Idris mentions products containing SAP, such as the one by U Beauty, Mad Hippie, and Number Seven Protect and Perfect Intense Advanced Serum, discussing their formulations, prices, and packaging. She also touches on other inactive forms like Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD), with a focus on their stability, absorption, and specific benefits.
💡 THD Ascorbate: The Ester Form of Vitamin C for All Skin Types
Dr. Idris highlights Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) as her personal favorite ester form of Vitamin C due to its lipid solubility, stability, and superior absorption compared to L-ascorbic acid. She explains that THD is effective for all skin types, particularly for brightening the skin and evening out skin tone, and is especially suitable for sensitive skin. The paragraph includes Dr. Idris's top picks for THD products, such as her own brand, Pillow Talk Derm, Dr. Loretta, and Sunday Riley's CEO Vitamin C Brightening Serum. She describes the formulations, packaging, and specific benefits of these products, emphasizing their collagen-boosting and skin-brightening effects.
🌈 Conclusion: Choosing the Right Vitamin C for Your Skin
In the concluding paragraph, Dr. Idris summarizes the discussion on Vitamin C and its derivatives, advising viewers on how to choose the best form for their skin type and needs. She also addresses forms of Vitamin C to avoid for sensitive or irritable skin. Dr. Idris provides a brief overview of additional forms of Vitamin C, such as Ascorbyl Glucoside, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, and Immuropriyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP), discussing their benefits, stability, and areas where more research is needed. She wraps up the video by inviting viewers to share their thoughts and suggestions for future topics in the comments section and signs off with a hopeful message for a beautiful Saturday.
Mindmap
Keywords
💡Vitamin C
💡Antioxidant
💡Free Radical Damage
💡Collagen
💡Discoloration
💡L-Ascorbic Acid
💡Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
💡Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
💡Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD)
💡Ascorbyl Glucoside
💡3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate
Highlights
Dr. Shireen Idris revisits the science of vitamin C, emphasizing its importance in skincare.
Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that protects against free radical damage from various environmental factors.
Vitamin C is not an SPF replacer but enhances sunscreen's effects by increasing the time skin can be exposed to the sun before reddening.
Vitamin C is essential for collagen production, acting as a key component for two enzymes in the collagen synthesis pathway.
Vitamin C helps in evening out skin discoloration by reducing copper availability for melanin production.
Different forms of vitamin C exist, with L-ascorbic acid being the active form directly applicable to the skin.
L-ascorbic acid, while effective, can be unstable and irritating, making it unsuitable for some skin types.
The ideal concentration of L-ascorbic acid for skin benefit ranges from 3% to 5%, with higher concentrations potentially causing irritation.
SkinCeuticals, Paula's Choice, Timeless, and CeraVe are recommended products containing L-ascorbic acid.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) is a stable form of vitamin C suitable for oily or acne-prone skin due to its antibacterial properties.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) has good stability but is poorly absorbed by the skin, limiting its effectiveness.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD) is a lipid-soluble form of vitamin C with superior absorption and collagen benefits.
Ascorbyl glucoside and 3-O-ethyl ascorbate are combined in some products for collagen and brightening effects.
Corvo palmitate is similar to ascorbic acid in stability but lacks proven benefits in terms of absorption and effectiveness.
Immunopropyl ascorbyl phosphate (AAP) is a new form of vitamin C with potential stability but requires more research for effectiveness.
Dr. Idris provides a comprehensive guide on choosing the right form of vitamin C based on skin type and concerns.
The video concludes with a reminder to subscribe and engage with Dr. Idris's content for skincare education and updates.
Transcripts
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