The Chemistry Behind Cosmetics | Helena Garrood | TEDxFrancisHollandSchoolSloaneSquare

TEDx Talks
14 Oct 202109:04
EducationalLearning
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TLDRThe video script addresses the misconceptions surrounding the term 'clean beauty' and the use of chemicals in cosmetic products. It explains that everything is made of chemicals, and even products labeled as natural or organic are based on chemistry to function effectively. The script debunks myths about certain ingredients, such as the fear of aluminum in deodorants, which have been discredited in the medical community. It also highlights that the term 'clean' is often misused to imply that other products are harmful, when in reality, the UK has strict regulations on chemical use in cosmetics. The video emphasizes that the skin acts as a barrier, preventing harmful absorption of chemicals, and that sustainability in the beauty industry is complex and not necessarily tied to 'clean' branding. It concludes by encouraging consumers to be informed about the chemistry of their cosmetic products and to make choices based on evidence rather than marketing.

Takeaways
  • 🧪 The term 'chemicals' often evokes fear, but everything is made of chemicals, and no product can be entirely free from them.
  • 🧴 Cosmetic products are based on chemical compounds, including water, emulsifiers, preservatives, emollients, color, and fragrance, which are safe in the doses used.
  • 🤔 The 'clean beauty' movement lacks a scientific definition and regulation, leading to potential consumer confusion and misinformation.
  • 🚫 The UK has strict regulations on the chemicals allowed in cosmetics, ensuring that unsafe chemicals are not used.
  • 🌱 The term 'clean' in 'clean beauty' can be misleading, as it implies other products are 'dirty' or toxic, which is not necessarily true.
  • 🧼 Soap works through a process called saponification, which turns fatty acids into fatty acid salts and glycerin, effectively cleaning hands.
  • 🧯 Preservatives in cosmetics prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms and are essential for product safety.
  • 🚫 'Free from' labels can be fear-mongering, as they imply certain ingredients are harmful without sufficient evidence.
  • 🌿 Natural products are not automatically safer or more sustainable; their production can have significant environmental impacts.
  • ♻️ Sustainability in the beauty industry is complex and depends on various factors, including the methods used to produce ingredients.
  • 💡 Knowledge of the chemistry behind cosmetic products empowers consumers to make informed choices despite heavy marketing.
Q & A

  • What is the common misconception about the term 'chemicals' in relation to products?

    -The common misconception is that 'chemicals' imply something dangerous or bad for us, and that 'free from chemicals' or 'organic' products must be better or safer. However, everything is made of chemicals at a fundamental level, and the presence of chemicals does not inherently make a product dangerous.

  • What role does water play in most cosmetic products?

    -Water is a solvent and forms the basis of most cosmetic products. It is usually listed as the first ingredient because it serves as the medium in which other ingredients are dissolved or suspended.

  • Why are emulsifiers necessary in cosmetic products?

    -Emulsifiers are needed to create a stable mixture of oil and water, which don't naturally mix. They change the surface tension and allow for a well-mixed and even texture in products like creams and lotions.

  • What is the purpose of preservatives in cosmetics?

    -Preservatives are added to cosmetic products to prevent the growth of microorganisms such as fungi or bacteria, which could potentially harm the user.

  • How does the skin act as a barrier regarding chemical absorption?

    -The skin acts as a barrier that prevents most chemical compounds from being absorbed into the bloodstream. Any small traces that are absorbed are typically metabolized and excreted by the body.

  • What is the process of making soap called, and how does it work?

    -The process is called saponification. It involves mixing oil containing fatty acids with sodium hydroxide, which breaks down the fatty acids into fatty acid salts and glycerin. The fatty acid salts have a hydrophilic head and a lipophilic tail, allowing them to bind to dirt and oil on the skin and then be washed away with water.

  • What issues arise with the term 'clean beauty' in the cosmetics industry?

    -The term 'clean beauty' is not a set scientific definition and lacks regulation. It can lead to consumer confusion and the spread of misinformation. Additionally, labeling products as 'clean' or 'non-toxic' can imply that other products are harmful, which is not always the case.

  • How does the UK regulate the use of chemicals in cosmetic products?

    -The UK has strict regulatory limits on which chemicals and at what concentrations are allowed in cosmetic products. The regulations take into account aggregate exposure at maximal consumer usage, and unsafe chemicals are illegal to use in cosmetic products.

  • Why is the term 'free from' considered fear-mongering in the context of cosmetics?

    -The term 'free from' is used to label products without certain common ingredients, which are often deemed harmful. However, this can mislead consumers into thinking that the absence of these ingredients automatically makes a product safer, without considering the overall formulation and safety of the product.

  • What is a common misconception about the sustainability of natural ingredients in cosmetics?

    -A common misconception is that natural ingredients are always more sustainable or environmentally friendly. However, the production process, the amount of land and resources required, and the impact on biodiversity can make some natural ingredients less sustainable than their synthetic counterparts.

  • How can consumers make more sustainable choices when it comes to cosmetics?

    -Consumers can make more sustainable choices by buying less and using all of the products they purchase. It's also important to be informed about the ingredients and production methods of the products, rather than relying solely on labels like 'clean' or 'organic'.

  • What is the importance of understanding the chemistry behind cosmetic products?

    -Understanding the chemistry behind cosmetic products empowers consumers to make informed decisions. It helps to debunk myths, understand the actual impact of ingredients on health and the environment, and resist marketing that may be based on misinformation or fear-mongering.

Outlines
00:00
🧪 Chemistry in Cosmetics: Debunking Myths

This paragraph discusses the common misconceptions about chemicals in cosmetics. It clarifies that everything is made of chemicals and that even 'clean beauty' products are based on chemistry. The paragraph explains the roles of water, emulsifiers, preservatives, emollients, and color/fragrance in cosmetic formulations. It also touches on the regulatory standards for chemicals in the UK and the appeal of the term 'clean beauty,' which lacks a scientific definition. The speaker emphasizes that the skin acts as a barrier, preventing most chemicals from being absorbed into the bloodstream.

05:02
🌿 Clean Beauty: Misconceptions and Sustainability

The second paragraph delves into the issues surrounding the 'clean beauty' movement, including the exploitation of consumer ignorance and the spread of misinformation by celebrities and social media. It challenges the idea that natural products are automatically safe and that synthetic chemicals are harmful, pointing out that outdated or irrelevant studies are sometimes used to support these claims. The paragraph also addresses the sustainability of 'clean' products, using rose essential oil as an example of a natural product with a high environmental impact. It contrasts this with synthetic methods, which can sometimes be more sustainable. The speaker advises that decisions about cosmetic products should be informed by evidence rather than assumptions and encourages consumers to be mindful of their purchasing habits for sustainability.

Mindmap
Keywords
💡Chemicals
Chemicals are substances with a definite composition. In the context of the video, they debunk the misconception that all chemicals are harmful. The video emphasizes that everything is made of chemicals and that the presence of chemicals in cosmetics is not inherently negative. For example, water is a chemical (H2O) and is the first ingredient in most cosmetic products.
💡Clean Beauty
Clean beauty refers to products labeled as natural, organic, or clean. The video discusses the rise of this term and the lack of a scientific definition, which leads to a lack of regulation. It also points out that labeling products as 'clean' can imply that other products are 'dirty', which is misleading. Clean beauty is often associated with being safer, but the video challenges this notion.
💡Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers are substances that help mix two usually unmixable substances, like oil and water. They are crucial in the creation of most cosmetic products, which are emulsions. The video explains that emulsifiers change surface tension to create an even texture, which is essential for products like moisturizers and cleansers.
💡Preservatives
Preservatives are added to cosmetic products to prevent the growth of microorganisms such as fungi or bacteria. The video mentions common examples like benzyl alcohol and parabens. They are important for the safety of the products, ensuring they do not harm the user. However, the video also addresses common misconceptions and fears about these ingredients.
💡Emollients
Emollients are substances that soften and smooth the skin by reducing moisture loss. The video uses lip balms as an example where emollients like petroleum jelly, lanolin, and beeswax are commonly used. They play a key role in the moisturizing aspect of many cosmetic products.
💡Saponification
Saponification is the chemical process by which soap is made, involving the reaction of fats or oils with an alkali like sodium hydroxide to produce fatty acid salts and glycerin. The video explains that the fatty acid salts created have properties that help clean skin by binding to dirt and oil, which are then rinsed away with water.
💡Misinformation
The video discusses how misinformation can spread, particularly in the context of clean beauty branding and social media. Celebrities endorsing products can contribute to the spread of myths about certain ingredients being harmful, even when scientific consensus disagrees. Misinformation can lead consumers to make choices based on fear rather than fact.
💡Sustainability
Sustainability in the context of the video refers to the environmental impact of cosmetic production. The video challenges the assumption that 'clean' or 'natural' automatically means more sustainable. It gives examples like rose essential oil, which requires a large amount of plant material and can lead to deforestation and high CO2 emissions. The video emphasizes the need for evidence-based decisions regarding sustainability.
💡Synthetic vs. Natural
The video explores the comparison between synthetic and natural methods of producing ingredients for cosmetics. It explains that synthetic methods can sometimes be more sustainable, as in the case of menthol production, which results in lower greenhouse gas emissions. The video argues against the blanket assumption that natural is always better, highlighting the complexity of sustainability.
💡Ingredient Lists
Ingredient lists are detailed on cosmetic products and can be scrutinized for potentially harmful substances. The video points out that consumers may not fully understand how ingredients interact within a product. It emphasizes that cosmetic scientists carefully select and test ingredients to ensure safety and efficacy, countering the idea that all chemicals are harmful.
💡Skin Barrier
The skin acts as a barrier that limits the absorption of chemicals into the bloodstream. The video dispels the myth that chemicals in cosmetics are readily absorbed and harmful. It explains that any small traces that are absorbed are typically metabolized and excreted by the body, reducing the risk of adverse health effects.
Highlights

The term 'chemicals' often evokes fear, but everything is made of chemicals, and 'chemical-free' is a misnomer.

Clean beauty products, despite their labels, are still based on chemistry to be effective.

Cosmetic products typically include water, emulsifiers, preservatives, emollients, color, and fragrance.

The impact of chemicals on health is usually negligible due to the small doses used in cosmetics.

Emulsifiers are crucial for creating a uniform texture in cosmetics, which are often oil-water emulsions.

Preservatives prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms in cosmetic products.

Emollients, like petroleum jelly, lanolin, and beeswax, moisturize by preventing moisture loss.

Saponification is the chemical process behind soap making, involving the reaction of oils with sodium hydroxide.

Clean beauty is not a scientifically defined term and lacks regulation, leading to potential misinformation.

Labeling products as 'clean' or 'non-toxic' can imply that other products are harmful, which is not always the case.

The UK has strict regulations on the chemicals allowed in cosmetics, ensuring safety.

Some clean beauty brands exploit consumer lack of knowledge, leading to the spread of misinformation.

The term 'free from' is often used to market products as safer, despite a lack of scientific evidence.

The skin acts as a barrier, preventing most chemicals from being absorbed into the bloodstream.

Studies linking aluminum in deodorants to health issues have been discredited.

Natural products are not automatically safer; safety depends on the specific compound and its concentration.

The sustainability of a product cannot be inferred from it being labeled 'clean' or 'natural'.

Synthetic production methods can sometimes be more sustainable than natural ones, as seen in the case of menthol.

The most sustainable approach to cosmetics is to buy less and use up what you have.

Individual needs and preferences should guide cosmetic choices, as some people benefit from certain 'free from' products.

It's important to be aware of the marketing tactics used by the cosmetics industry and make informed decisions based on knowledge.

Transcripts

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Chemical MythsClean BeautyCosmetic ScienceSustainabilitySkincareHealth ImpactBeauty IndustryProduct LabelsEnvironmental ImpactSafety ConcernsConsumer Awareness