Let's Get Intimate: Hyaluronic Acid | Dr. Shereene Idriss
TLDRIn this informative video, Dr. Shireen Idriss addresses the widespread use and marketing of hyaluronic acid (HA) in the skincare industry. She explains that while HA is a naturally occurring substance in the body that provides structural support and aids in wound healing, its topical application is often misrepresented. Dr. Idriss debunks common myths, such as HA's ability to deeply hydrate skin, pointing out that low molecular weight HA, often used in skincare products, does not penetrate deeply and can actually lead to increased skin dehydration and inflammation. She advises viewers to be cautious with HA usage, suggesting it be limited to one product in their skincare routine and to always follow up with a moisturizer to lock in hydration. Dr. Idriss also shares her preference for glycerin as a more effective humectant and encourages viewers to be educated consumers in the skincare market.
Takeaways
- ๐ Dr. Shireen discusses the widespread use and marketing of hyaluronic acid (H.A.) in the skincare industry, despite someไบ่ฎฎ (controversies) about its effectiveness when applied topically.
- ๐ง Hyaluronic acid is praised for its ability to hold up to a thousand times its weight in water, which is why it's often marketed as a hydrating ingredient.
- ๐ซ Contrary to popular belief, Dr. Shireen argues that topical H.A. may not deeply penetrate the skin and could potentially draw water out from the skin, leading to dehydration.
- ๐ She emphasizes the importance of the molecular weight of H.A., explaining that high molecular weight H.A. is naturally occurring in our bodies and has different properties than the low molecular weight form often used in skincare products.
- ๐ก Dr. Shireen reveals that the low molecular weight H.A. can actually be pro-inflammatory, which contradicts claims that it is soothing and calming for the skin.
- ๐ค She questions the logic of using a humectant like H.A. that needs to be paired with an occlusive ingredient to prevent moisture loss, suggesting that using a moisturizer alone might be more effective.
- ๐ต The native form of H.A. in our bodies (high molecular weight) is beneficial for skin structure and wound healing, but this doesn't necessarily translate to the same benefits when applied topically.
- ๐งช Dr. Shireen mentions a class action lawsuit against a big brand for false claims about H.A., highlighting the need for consumers to be aware of the science behind skincare ingredients.
- ๐ For special occasions, H.A. can provide a temporary plumping effect, but it should be used judiciously and sealed with a strong moisturizer.
- ๐ฟ She advises against overusing H.A. in one's skincare routine to prevent skin dryness, redness, and irritation, and recommends limiting its use to one product if necessary.
- ๐ Dr. Shireen prefers glycerin as a humectant, suggesting it's a more reliable and less controversial ingredient for hydration.
Q & A
What is Dr. Shireen's main concern about the use of topical hyaluronic acid in skincare?
-Dr. Shireen expresses her disdain for topical hyaluronic acid due to the misleading claims made by the skincare industry about its hydrating abilities and the potential negative effects of overuse, such as increased dryness, redness, and inflammation.
Why does the skincare industry promote hyaluronic acid so heavily?
-The skincare industry promotes hyaluronic acid heavily because it has been associated with lucrative marketing dollars and has been touted as a miracle ingredient with numerous beneficial claims.
What is the issue with the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid used in many skincare products?
-Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, despite claims, does not penetrate deeply into the skin and can actually draw water from the skin's cells, leading to dehydration and potentially exacerbating dryness.
What is the role of hyaluronic acid in the human body?
-In the body, hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan that provides structural support to the skin, helps in wound healing, and promotes angiogenesis to increase blood supply to wounds for faster healing.
Why is the size of hyaluronic acid molecules important?
-The size of hyaluronic acid molecules is important because it determines the function of the hyaluronic acid when used topically. High molecular weight hyaluronic acid provides structural support in the dermis, while low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is used for its supposed ability to penetrate the skin, although this is disputed.
What is the main difference between native hyaluronic acid and synthesized hyaluronic acid?
-Native hyaluronic acid is high molecular weight and is found naturally in the dermis of the skin, providing structural support and hydration. Synthesized hyaluronic acid is often low molecular weight and is formulated to be absorbed topically, but it does not provide the same benefits and can potentially cause skin dehydration.
Why did Dr. Shireen object to the approval of a product during her time on the dermatology board?
-Dr. Shireen objected to the approval of a product because of the initial claims on the packaging about the hyaluronic acid content, which she felt were misleading or not scientifically accurate.
What is the role of hyaluronic acid in wound healing?
-Hyaluronic acid plays a crucial role in wound healing by promoting inflammation, which is necessary for the healing process, and by supporting angiogenesis, which increases blood supply to the wound to facilitate healing and regeneration.
Why is using hyaluronic acid in combination with an occlusive ingredient important?
-Using hyaluronic acid with an occlusive ingredient is important because hyaluronic acid can increase transepidermal water loss. An occlusive helps to seal in the moisture and prevent evaporation, providing a more effective hydrating effect.
What is Dr. Shireen's recommendation for using hyaluronic acid in a skincare routine?
-Dr. Shireen recommends using hyaluronic acid sparingly and strategically, such as before a special event for a temporary plumping effect. She advises against using it in every step of a skincare routine to prevent skin dehydration and potential irritation.
Why did Dr. Shireen feel her lips became dryer after using a hyaluronic acid lip serum?
-Dr. Shireen's lips became dryer because the hyaluronic acid in the lip serum drew water from her lips' cells, leading to a temporary plumping effect followed by dehydration and flakiness as the water evaporated from the hyaluronic acid.
What alternative does Dr. Shireen suggest to hyaluronic acid for a better humectant?
-Dr. Shireen suggests glycerin as an alternative to hyaluronic acid, stating that it is a tried and true humectant, smaller in size, capable of penetrating deeper into the skin, and not proven to be inflammatory.
Outlines
๐ Introduction to Dr. Shireen's Channel and Hyaluronic Acid (H.A.) Critique
Dr. Shireen, also known as Dr. Idris, welcomes viewers to her YouTube channel and mentions her previous video about a method involving rice and water. She promises to explain the science behind it in a future video. Today, she plans to discuss her skepticism about the use of topical hyaluronic acid in skincare. She notes that many publications may not criticize H.A. due to financial ties with the skincare industry. H.A. is widely claimed to have miraculous benefits, leading to its prevalence in many products. Dr. Shireen expresses her surprise at the extent of H.A.'s marketing and prevalence, and she prepares to debunk common myths about it.
๐ง The Ubiquity and Misrepresentation of Hyaluronic Acid in Skincare
Dr. Shireen discusses the commonality of H.A. in skincare products and how companies use different forms of it, such as sodium hyaluronate, to cut costs. She provides examples of products containing H.A. and emphasizes the need for consumers to be educated about the ingredient. She explains that H.A. is a glycosaminoglycan (GAG), which is a type of sugary carbohydrate, and questions its long-term benefits to the human body, comparing it to the instant gratification but short-term benefits of a sugary donut. H.A.'s role in the body is to provide structural support and aid in wound healing, but its topical application is not as effective as its native form within the skin.
๐ The Issue with Hyaluronic Acid's Molecular Size in Skincare Products
The video addresses the importance of molecular size in the effectiveness of H.A. in skincare. While high molecular weight H.A. is naturally found in the skin and can hold up to a thousand times its weight in water, the synthesized low molecular weight H.A. used in topical products does not penetrate deeply and remains in the epidermis. Dr. Shireen refutes the claim that low molecular weight H.A. is deeply hydrating, as it can actually draw water out from the skin, leading to dehydration. She also mentions a lawsuit against a brand for false claims about H.A. and advises against overusing H.A. in skincare routines.
๐ง The Counterproductive Nature of Topical Hyaluronic Acid
Dr. Shireen questions the use of H.A. in skincare when it can lead to increased water loss from the skin. She suggests that if a moisturizer is used to seal in H.A., it may be counterproductive since H.A. can draw moisture away from the moisturizer. She also dispels the myth that H.A. is soothing and calming, explaining that low molecular weight H.A. can actually be pro-inflammatory. She shares her clinical observations of patients who experienced increased dryness, redness, and inflammation from overusing H.A. in their skincare routines.
๐ Final Thoughts on Hyaluronic Acid Use and Alternatives
In conclusion, Dr. Shireen does not consider H.A. to be entirely detrimental but advises against its overuse in skincare routines. She suggests using H.A. for special occasions to achieve a plumped appearance and emphasizes the importance of sealing it with a strong occlusive or moisturizer. She recommends limiting its use to one product in the skincare routine to avoid skin dehydration. Dr. Shireen also expresses her preference for glycerin as a humectant, which she considers to be a better alternative to H.A. She encourages viewers to like, subscribe, and comment on the video and promises to address glycerin in a future video.
Mindmap
Keywords
๐กHyaluronic Acid
๐กMoisturizing
๐กHumectant
๐กMolecular Weight
๐กInflammation
๐กSkincare Industry
๐กTopical Application
๐กOcclusive Ingredient
๐กSodium Hyaluronate
๐กGlycerin
๐กTransepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)
Highlights
Dr. Shireen discusses her skepticism about the widespread use of topical hyaluronic acid in skincare products.
She promises to follow up on a previous video about her method with rice and water, hinting at the science behind it in a future video.
Dr. Shireen criticizes the marketing of hyaluronic acid, suggesting it's overhyped and not as effective as claimed.
She mentions that hyaluronic acid is found in almost every skincare product, which she finds concerning.
Dr. Shireen shares her personal negative experience with a hyaluronic acid lip serum, which dried her lips instead of moisturizing them.
She explains the chemical nature of hyaluronic acid, distinguishing it from exfoliating acids and clarifying its role as a humectant.
Dr. Shireen discusses the different forms of hyaluronic acid, including hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate.
She points out that the size of hyaluronic acid molecules is crucial for its function and that low molecular weight HA may not be as effective as claimed.
Dr. Shireen debunks the myth that topical hyaluronic acid deeply penetrates the skin and provides long-lasting hydration.
She emphasizes that hyaluronic acid's ability to retain water is not as effective when applied topically as it is when naturally occurring in the body.
Dr. Shireen explains that low molecular weight hyaluronic acid can actually be pro-inflammatory, contrary to common claims of it being soothing.
She advises against using hyaluronic acid in every step of a skincare routine due to the risk of skin dehydration and irritation.
Dr. Shireen suggests using hyaluronic acid sparingly for special occasions to achieve a plumping effect, but recommends sealing it with a good moisturizer.
She offers an alternative recommendation, suggesting glycerin as a better humectant that is less likely to cause skin issues.
Dr. Shireen encourages viewers to be educated consumers and to question the claims made by the skincare industry about hyaluronic acid.
The video concludes with a call to action for viewers to like, subscribe, and comment, and a teaser for the next video to be released the following Saturday.
Transcripts
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