Chemist Breaks Down the Ingredients in $54 'Clean' Foundation | WSJ Label Lab

The Wall Street Journal
30 Mar 202307:07
EducationalLearning
32 Likes 10 Comments

TLDRThe video script features Kelly Dobos, an expert in cosmetic science with 20 years of experience, discussing the ingredients in ILIA's True Skin Serum Foundation. It highlights the use of iron oxides and titanium dioxide for pigmentation, the latter's safety concerns when inhaled, and the foundation's alternative use of aloe leaf juice over water. The script also touches on the roles of fillers like rice hull powder and boron nitride for optical blurring effects, skincare ingredients for hydration, and the importance of emulsifiers, preservatives, and sodium chloride in stabilizing the product. ILIA's marketing as a clean beauty brand is mentioned, emphasizing the trend towards naturally derived and safety-profiled ingredients.

Takeaways
  • 🎨 The script discusses the formulation of ILIA's True Skin Serum Foundation, highlighting the use of various pigments to create different shades of foundation.
  • 👩‍🔬 Kelly Dobos, with over 20 years of experience, explains the ingredients and their functions in the foundation, including her work with well-known cosmetic brands.
  • 🌿 Aloe leaf juice is used as a substitute for water in the foundation, adding to the cost but also providing skincare benefits.
  • 🔴🟠🟢 Iron oxides (red, yellow, black) and titanium dioxide are the primary pigments used, with the latter also increasing the opacity of the foundation.
  • 🚫 Titanium dioxide's safety in cosmetic formulations is considered secure, but it has raised concerns when inhaled as airborne particles, leading to California's Prop 65 warnings.
  • 📈 The iron oxides are rated as having a moderate safety score by the Environmental Working Group and are commonly used in cosmetic products.
  • 🌾 ILIA foundation avoids talc as a filler, opting for more expensive but higher-quality alternatives like rice hull powder and boron nitride for their additional properties.
  • 💧 The foundation's emulsification process combines oil and water or silicone phases, with ingredients like polyglyceryl-2 isostearate acting as emulsifiers.
  • 🛡️ Preservatives play a crucial role in protecting the foundation from bacterial contamination, with multiple preservatives used for broad-spectrum protection.
  • 📦 ILIA markets itself as a clean beauty brand, focusing on naturally derived ingredients and known safety profiles, although 'clean beauty' is not strictly defined by regulations.
  • 🧪 The importance of lab safety is emphasized, with a humorous note on the portrayal of scientists in media.
Q & A

  • Who is Kelly Dobos and what is her expertise?

    -Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist with over 20 years of experience in formulating products. She has worked for notable brands such as Bonne Bell, Jergens Lotion, and PURELL, and she specializes in color cosmetics. Currently, she teaches cosmetic science at the University of Cincinnati.

  • What is the primary focus of the video?

    -The primary focus of the video is to breakdown the ingredients found in ILIA's True Skin Serum Foundation and explain their functions and safety profiles.

  • How many ingredients are listed in the ILIA foundation and what is the significance of this number?

    -The ILIA foundation has over 35 ingredients listed. This number indicates the complexity of the product formulation and the variety of roles different ingredients play in achieving the desired texture, coverage, and skin benefits.

  • What are the four primary pigments used in foundations and why are they used?

    -The four primary pigments used in foundations are red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, and titanium dioxide. These pigments are used to provide different shades and coverage levels in the foundation, with iron oxides contributing to the color and titanium dioxide increasing opacity.

  • What concerns have been raised about titanium dioxide in recent times?

    -Titanium dioxide has recently come under scrutiny because it can be a carcinogen when inhaled in the form of airborne particles. However, in cosmetic formulations, it is considered safe and the concerns mainly arise from industrial exposures for manufacturing workers.

  • What is the role of yield value in a foundation and what is an example of a substance that provides it?

    -Yield value is the ability to suspend a particle within a liquid, preventing it from settling. An example of a substance that provides yield value is the polymer found in hand sanitizer, which helps keep the particles suspended.

  • Why does the ILIA foundation use aloe leaf juice instead of water as its main solvent?

    -ILIA foundation uses aloe leaf juice instead of water to add a significant cost to the formulation and provide additional benefits. Aloe is about 98% water, making it a suitable substitute, and it also brings additional properties that contribute to the product's overall quality.

  • What are fillers in a foundation and why are they important?

    -Fillers are ingredients that help pigments and the foundation spread evenly on the skin. They are important for balancing the feel of a product across the entire range of shades and ensuring a consistent texture and application experience.

  • What are the three strategies for moisturizing the skin in cosmetic formulations?

    -The three strategies for moisturizing the skin in cosmetic formulations are using humectants, which help absorb water like a sponge; emollients, which soften and smooth the skin; and occlusives, which form a protective layer over the skin to lock in moisture.

  • What is the significance of the order of ingredients on a cosmetic product label?

    -The order of ingredients on a cosmetic product label is significant because they are listed in descending order of predominance. This means that the ingredients listed closer to the top of the list are present in higher concentrations in the product.

  • How do emulsifiers function in an emulsion product like foundation?

    -Emulsifiers function by combining oil and water or silicone phases, allowing them to mix together without separating. In the ILIA foundation, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate acts as an emulsifier, helping to maintain a stable and consistent texture.

  • Why is sodium chloride, or table salt, included in the foundation formula?

    -Sodium chloride, or table salt, is included in the foundation formula to stabilize the particles in the emulsion, preventing them from coalescing into larger droplets and destabilizing the formula. It also helps lower the freezing point, making the product more stable during transportation.

Outlines
00:00
🎨 Understanding the Science of Makeup Pigments

This paragraph introduces Kelly Dobos, an expert in cosmetic formulation with over 20 years of experience, who currently teaches cosmetic science at the University of Cincinnati. The focus is on breaking down the ingredients of ILIA's True Skin Serum Foundation, with an emphasis on pigments. Iron oxides, which are essentially rust, are the primary pigments used, including red, yellow, and black iron oxides, along with titanium dioxide for tinting and increasing opacity. The paragraph also discusses the safety of these ingredients according to the FDA, with a special mention of the recent scrutiny of titanium dioxide as a potential carcinogen when inhaled in the form of airborne particles, not as it appears in liquid foundations. The narrative explains the function of iron oxides in providing a smooth feel and the method used by chemists to prevent pigment settling, which involves dissolving the pigments in a liquid with yield value, like hand sanitizer. The use of aloe leaf juice instead of water in the ILIA foundation is highlighted, as it adds cost due to the need for harvesting and processing, but serves as a good substitute because it is mostly water. The paragraph concludes by discussing the role of fillers in balancing the feel of the product and the controversy surrounding talc, leading to the use of more expensive but safer alternatives like rice hull powder and boron nitride in the ILIA foundation.

05:01
🧪 Skincare and Emulsification in Makeup

This paragraph delves into the skincare benefits of the ILIA foundation, noting that ingredients with such benefits are listed closer to the middle of the ingredients list, indicating their efficacious levels. It compares foundations to lotions, explaining that they are typically emulsion products combining oil, water, or silicone phases. The use of polyglyceryl-2 isostearate as an emulsifier is mentioned, along with hydrogenated lecithin and ordinary table salt (sodium chloride) for stabilizing the emulsion and lowering the freezing point for stability during transportation. The paragraph also addresses the importance of preservatives in maintaining product safety from bacteria, with a mention of the preservative challenge test to simulate the introduction of bacteria through use. The concept of clean beauty is discussed, noting that it is not defined in a regulatory sense in the cosmetics industry but generally focuses on naturally derived and safely profiled ingredients. The FDA's role in providing guidance on product safety is highlighted, emphasizing the importance of lab safety and the lack of FDA approval requirements for cosmetics before they go to market.

Mindmap
Keywords
💡Pigments
Pigments are substances that give color to various materials, including cosmetics like foundations. In the context of the video, pigments such as iron oxides and titanium dioxide are used to create different shades of foundation. Iron oxides (red, yellow, and black) and titanium dioxide are primary pigments that contribute to the color and opacity of the product. The combination of these pigments allows for a wide range of shades to be produced, catering to diverse skin tones.
💡Iron Oxides
Iron oxides are chemical compounds that are used as pigments in cosmetics, including foundations. They are essentially rust and are categorized by their color - red, yellow, and black iron oxides. In the video, these oxides are crucial for creating the various shades of the foundation. They provide the base color and can be combined with other pigments to achieve a desired shade.
💡Titanium Dioxide
Titanium dioxide is a common ingredient in cosmetic products, particularly in foundations and sunscreens, due to its ability to provide opacity and tint the product to different shades. It is a white pigment that helps in achieving a higher coverage level in foundations. However, it has recently come under scrutiny for its potential health risks when inhaled as airborne particles, although it is considered safe when used in cosmetic formulations.
💡FDA
The FDA, or Food and Drug Administration, is a federal agency in the United States responsible for protecting public health by ensuring the safety, efficacy, and security of human and veterinary drugs, biological products, and medical devices, as well as the safety of the nation's food supply, cosmetics, and products that emit radiation. In the context of the video, the FDA's role is to evaluate the safety of ingredients used in cosmetics, ensuring that they are non-toxic and safe for consumer use.
💡Yield Value
Yield value refers to the ability of a liquid to suspend particles, preventing them from settling at the bottom. In the context of the video, this property is crucial for the formulation of foundations, as it ensures that the pigments remain evenly distributed throughout the product. This is important for maintaining the consistency and performance of the foundation, ensuring that it does not separate and providing a uniform application.
💡Aloe Leaf Juice
Aloe leaf juice is a natural ingredient derived from the aloe plant, known for its soothing and hydrating properties. In the context of the video, aloe leaf juice is used as a substitute for water in the foundation formula, adding cost due to its harvesting and processing requirements. Despite being more expensive, aloe leaf juice offers benefits like hydration and is used by the brand ILIA for its potential skincare properties.
💡Fillers
In the context of cosmetic formulations, fillers are ingredients that help to balance the feel of a product across its range of shades. They contribute to the texture and performance of the makeup by ensuring that pigments and the foundation spread evenly on the skin. Fillers like rice hull powder and boron nitride are used in place of talc, which has faced controversies due to potential asbestos contamination.
💡Talc
Talc is a mineral that has been used as a filler in cosmetics, known for its ability to improve the feel and application of products. However, there have been controversies surrounding talc due to potential contamination with asbestos, a known carcinogen. As a result, many cosmetic brands have removed talc from their products in response to these concerns.
💡Skincare Ingredients
Skincare ingredients are components in cosmetic products that provide benefits to the skin, beyond just color correction or coverage. These ingredients can include humectants, emollients, and occlusives, which serve to moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin. In the context of the video, the ILIA foundation contains skincare ingredients like glycerin, niacinamide, allantoin, and bisabolol, which contribute to hydration, skin tone evening, and additional skincare benefits.
💡Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers are ingredients that help mix two immiscible substances, such as oil and water, by stabilizing one droplet within another substance. In the context of the video, emulsifiers like polyglyceryl-2 isostearate and hydrogenated lecithin are used in the foundation to create a stable emulsion, ensuring that the oil and water phases do not separate and maintain the product's consistency and performance.
💡Preservatives
Preservatives are additives used in cosmetic products to prevent spoilage and contamination by bacteria, yeast, and molds. They help maintain the safety and shelf life of the product by inhibiting the growth of microorganisms. In the context of the video, preservatives are essential for protecting the foundation from bacterial contamination, especially with repeated use when fingers are dipped into the product.
💡Clean Beauty
Clean beauty refers to a trend in the cosmetics industry that focuses on using ingredients that are more naturally derived and have known safety profiles. It is not defined in a regulatory sense, and different brands and retailers may have their own interpretations of what constitutes clean beauty. The emphasis is on transparency, ingredient safety, and minimizing the use of potentially harmful chemicals.
Highlights

Kelly Dobos, with over 20 years of experience, specializes in color cosmetics and teaches cosmetic science at the University of Cincinnati.

ILIA's True Skin Serum Foundation contains over 35 ingredients, including aloe leaf juice and polyricinoleate.

The foundation uses four primary pigments: red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, and titanium dioxide.

Iron oxides are essentially rust, while titanium dioxide is used for tinting and increasing opacity in foundations.

All ingredients in the $54 ILIA foundation are considered safe by the FDA, despite recent scrutiny on titanium dioxide.

California's Prop 65 requires warnings for titanium dioxide in airborne particles, not in liquid foundations.

Iron oxides have a moderate safety score and are found in over 7,000 foundations, providing a smooth feeling.

To prevent pigments from settling, chemists dissolve them in a liquid with yield value, like hand sanitizer.

ILIA foundation uses aloe leaf juice instead of water, adding cost due to the need for harvesting and processing.

Fillers like rice hull powder and boron nitride are used for even pigment and foundation spread, and boron nitride provides optical blurring for smoothness.

The foundation contains skincare ingredients like humectants, emollients, and occlusives for moisturizing the skin.

Glycerin is a highly effective and cost-effective hydrating ingredient, though it can feel sticky to the touch.

Ingredients are listed in descending order of predominance, with skincare benefits like niacinamide, allantoin, and bisabolol in the middle of the list.

ILIA foundation is an emulsion product, combining oil and water or silicone phases with emulsifiers like polyglyceryl-2 isostearate.

Sodium chloride, or table salt, stabilizes particles in the emulsion and lowers the freezing point for stability during transportation.

Preservatives protect the foundation from bacteria, with multiple preservatives used for broad-spectrum protection.

ILIA markets itself as a clean beauty brand, focusing on naturally derived ingredients and known safety profiles.

Cosmetics do not require FDA approval before market release, but the FDA provides guidance on product safety.

Lab safety is paramount, especially when handling potentially hazardous substances in scientific research and product development.

Transcripts

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Cosmetic ScienceClean BeautyFoundation IngredientsIron OxidesTitanium DioxideSkincare in MakeupProduct FormulationKelly DobosILIA BrandBeauty Industry