The Brains Behind Beauty: The Science of Cosmetic Chemistry

Women Tech Council
30 Apr 202012:52
EducationalLearning
32 Likes 10 Comments

TLDRDr. Helen Nags, Vice President of Global Research and Development at Nu Skin Enterprises, shares her journey in the predominantly male field of biochemistry and pharmacology. The video provides an insightful look into the world of personal care formulation, highlighting the creation of a triphasic toner with three distinct layers: a water phase, a dimethicone phase, and an oil phase. Formulator Lucas demonstrates the process, explaining the purpose of each ingredient from hydration to preservation. The video also touches on the importance of environmentally friendly products and the creative freedom in formulating new products. It concludes with advice for aspiring formulators to pursue education in cosmetic chemistry and seek internships for hands-on experience.

Takeaways
  • 🎓 Dr. Helen Nags, VP of global R&D at Nu Skin, has a strong academic background in biochemistry, pharmacology, and molecular biology.
  • 🧪 Despite being in an industry that targets women, Dr. Nags has often been one of the few women in labs or executive meetings, highlighting the need for gender diversity in the field.
  • 🧴 The workshop introduces personal care formulation and showcases Nu Skin's scientists, aiming to inspire interest in the field.
  • 💧 Lucas, a formulator at Nu Skin, demonstrates the creation of a triphasic toner, a product with three distinct layers that hydrate and soothe the skin.
  • 🌿 Ingredients like glycerin, apple extract, and aloe are used for their hydrating and soothing properties in the toner's formulation.
  • 🔬 Butylene glycol and disodium EDTA are included for their roles as humectants and chelating agents, respectively, contributing to the product's efficacy and stability.
  • 🧼 Sodium benzoate and sodium chloride are utilized for their preservative properties and to enhance the water phase's ability to repel other layers.
  • 🎨 The toner's color comes from a blend of natural extracts, emphasizing the use of natural ingredients in product formulation.
  • 💧 The silicone phase, using dimethicone, provides a 'slip' that allows the toner to glide smoothly over the skin.
  • 🌟 The oil phase, featuring Buriti oil and fragrance, adds nourishment and a pleasant scent, contributing to the sensory experience of the product.
  • 🌱 The final product is a green toner that, when shaken, combines the three layers for a harmonious blend of ingredients.
  • 🌍 The industry is moving towards more environmentally friendly products, aligning with consumer values and creating opportunities for innovation.
  • 📚 For those interested in the field, pursuing education in cosmetic chemistry and seeking internships or shadowing opportunities can be valuable steps towards a career in formulation.
Q & A

  • What is Dr. Helen Nags' educational background?

    -Dr. Helen Nags has a bachelor's degree in biochemistry and pharmacology and a doctorate degree from the department of biochemistry and molecular biology at the University of Leeds in England.

  • What is the significance of the triphasic toner product mentioned in the script?

    -The triphasic toner is a favorite product of Lucas, the formulator, because it has three distinct layers which include a water phase, a dimethicone or silicone phase, and an oil phase on top. It showcases the creativity and formulation skills at Nu Skin Enterprises.

  • What is the role of glycerin in the water phase of the triphasic toner?

    -Glycerin is recognized as a humectant, which means it pulls water from the air into the skin, providing hydration.

  • Why is disodium EDTA added to the formula?

    -Disodium EDTA is a salt that binds heavy metals in the formula, preventing them from interacting with other ingredients and aiding in the preservation of the formula.

  • What is the purpose of sodium chloride in the water phase of the toner?

    -Sodium chloride, or table salt, helps to further polarize the water phase, adding a charge that repels the other layers in the formula.

  • How does the low powder, which is dehydrated aloe, function in the formula?

    -The low powder, which is dehydrated aloe, traditionally serves as a soothing ingredient, often used to soothe the skin after sun care or when the skin has been damaged or dried.

  • What is the function of set R ammonium chloride in the water phase?

    -Set R ammonium chloride is used to add a positive charge to the water phase, enhancing its ability to repel the other layers in the formula.

  • What is the purpose of adding color to the formula?

    -The color, derived from a blend of natural extracts, is added to the formula to give it an appealing visual appearance, which comes from flowers and plants.

  • How does the dimethicone phase contribute to the product's effectiveness?

    -Dimethicone, commonly used in makeup primers, creates a 'slip' in products, allowing the toner to glide smoothly over the skin.

  • What is the role of Buriti oil in the oil phase of the triphasic toner?

    -Buriti oil is added to the oil phase to provide additional skin benefits, and it gives the oil phase its yellow color.

  • Why is the fragrance oil added to the oil phase?

    -The fragrance oil is added to the oil phase to give the product a pleasant scent, which in this case reminds Lucas of the ocean.

  • How does the research and development team at Nu Skin explain the benefits of their products to customers?

    -The team uses creative demonstrations, such as using everyday jello to symbolize the skin and comparing the gentleness of their cleansing device's silicone head to other devices with bristles.

  • What advice does Lucas give to those interested in a career in formulation chemistry?

    -Lucas suggests looking into colleges that offer cosmetic chemistry or general chemistry classes and seeking internships or shadowing opportunities within cosmetic companies.

Outlines
00:00
👩‍🔬 Introduction to Nu Skin and Personal Care Formulation

Dr. Helen Nags, Vice President of Global Research and Development at Nu Skin Enterprises, introduces herself with her academic background in biochemistry, pharmacology, and molecular biology. She discusses the challenges of being a woman in a male-dominated field and expresses hope to inspire interest in personal care formulation. Dr. Nags also mentions the workshop's handout, which outlines educational and career paths in personal care. Lucas, a formulator at Nu Skin, demonstrates the creation of a triphasic toner, explaining the ingredients and their benefits for the skin, such as hydration and preservation.

05:01
🧪 Crafting the Triphasic Toner: Ingredients and Layers

Lucas continues the demonstration by detailing the process of making the triphasic toner. He explains the function of each ingredient in the water phase, including humectants like glycerin and butylene glycol, and preservatives like disodium EDTA and sodium benzoate. He also discusses the addition of sodium chloride to enhance the water phase's charge and repel other layers. Lucas then moves on to the silicone phase, using dimethicone to create a slip for the product. The oil phase is created with base oil and Buriti oil, followed by the addition of fragrance oil. He emphasizes the importance of ingredient density in separating the layers of the toner and concludes with the final product, a green toner ready for use.

10:03
🌿 Environmentally Friendly Formulations and Career Advice

The video script highlights the growing trend of environmentally friendly products in the cosmetics industry, which aligns with consumer values. It features a person who shares their journey into the field of cosmetic science after initially considering pharmacy. They express enthusiasm for the creativity and innovation involved in formulating new products. The individual also discusses the challenges of formulating products through multiple iterations. Advice is given to aspiring formulators to seek educational opportunities in cosmetic chemistry and to look for internships or shadowing experiences within cosmetic companies to gain practical experience.

Mindmap
Keywords
💡Biochemistry
Biochemistry is the study of the chemical processes and substances occurring within living organisms. It plays a crucial role in the development of personal care products as it helps in understanding the interaction between the product's ingredients and the skin's biology. In the video, Dr. Helen Nags, who holds a degree in biochemistry, discusses the formulation of a triphasic toner, demonstrating the application of biochemistry in product development.
💡Pharmacology
Pharmacology is the branch of science that deals with the study of drugs and their effects on living organisms. It is relevant in the context of personal care products as it helps in understanding how different ingredients may affect the skin and body. Dr. Helen Nags has a background in pharmacology, which likely informs her approach to creating safe and effective formulations for Nu Skin Enterprises.
💡Personal Care Formulation
Personal care formulation refers to the process of creating products for personal hygiene and beauty, such as lotions, creams, and toners. The video focuses on this process, showcasing how scientists at Nu Skin Enterprises develop innovative personal care products. The triphasic toner demonstrated in the video is an example of a complex formulation that combines different layers with specific ingredients to benefit the skin.
💡Humectant
A humectant is a substance that helps retain moisture in the skin by attracting and absorbing water from the environment. In the video, glycerin and butylene glycol are mentioned as humectants used in the water phase of the triphasic toner to hydrate the skin. This is a key component in the formulation process, as it directly impacts the product's effectiveness in moisturizing the skin.
💡Dimethicone
Dimethicone, also known as silicone oil, is a common ingredient in personal care products, particularly in makeup primers, due to its ability to create a smooth, non-greasy layer on the skin. In the video, Lucas, a formulator at Nu Skin, adds dimethicone to the toner to create a 'slip' that allows the product to glide easily over the skin, enhancing its application and feel.
💡Disodium EDTA
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent used in cosmetics to bind heavy metals, preventing them from interacting with other ingredients and causing unwanted reactions. It also aids in the preservation of the product. In the script, it is mentioned as an ingredient in the water phase of the triphasic toner, highlighting its role in ensuring the stability and safety of the formulation.
💡Sodium Benzoate
Sodium benzoate is a widely used preservative in both the food and cosmetics industries due to its effectiveness in preventing the growth of microorganisms. It is recognized for its safety and is added to the water phase of the toner in the video to extend its shelf life and maintain product integrity.
💡Sodium Chloride
Sodium chloride, or table salt, is used in the formulation of the triphasic toner to increase the polarity of the water phase, which helps in repelling other phases and maintaining the separation of the different layers in the product. This is a crucial aspect of creating a stable multi-phase cosmetic product.
💡Aloe Vera
Aloe vera is a plant extract that has been traditionally used for its soothing properties, particularly in sun care products. In the video, dehydrated aloe is added to the water phase of the toner to provide a calming effect on the skin, especially after it has been damaged or dried. This ingredient contributes to the overall skin-friendly nature of the personal care product.
💡Stearyl Ammonium Chloride
Stearyl ammonium chloride is an ingredient used in the hair care industry to add a positive charge to products, which can enhance their interaction with hair. In the context of the triphasic toner, it is added to the water phase to increase its charge, further ensuring the separation and stability of the different layers within the product.
💡Fragrance Oil
Fragrance oils are used to add scent to personal care products, enhancing the sensory experience of using them. In the video, a fragrance oil that reminds Lucas of the ocean is added to the oil phase of the toner. This not only provides a pleasant aroma but also contributes to the overall appeal and customer satisfaction with the product.
Highlights

Dr. Helen Nags, Vice President of Global Research and Development at Nu Skin Enterprises, has a strong academic background in biochemistry and pharmacology.

Dr. Nags has often been the only woman or one of few in her field, despite the industry's strong focus on women.

The workshop aims to spark interest in personal care formulation and introduce attendees to Nu Skin's scientists.

Participants are provided with a handout summarizing educational and career paths in personal care.

Lucas, a formulator at Nu Skin, demonstrates the creation of a triphasic toner with three distinct layers.

The toner's first layer includes a mixture of glycerin and apple extract known for its hydrating properties.

Butylene glycol is added as a humectant to further hydrate the skin.

Disodium EDTA is used to bind heavy metals and aid in the formula's preservation.

Sodium benzoate is a common ingredient in both the food and cosmetics industry.

Sodium chloride, or table salt, helps polarize the water phase to repel other layers in the formula.

Dehydrated aloe is traditionally used for its soothing properties, especially post sun care.

Set R ammonium chloride, used in the hair care industry, adds a positive charge to the formula.

The toner's color comes from a blend of natural extracts derived from flowers and plants.

Dimethicone, used to create slip in makeup primers, is added to the silicon phase of the toner.

The oil phase of the toner is created with octal dodeca Nall and Buriti oil, followed by the addition of fragrance oil.

The three distinct layers of the toner are due to differences in density, with the most dense at the bottom.

Shaking the toner creates a green mixture ready for use, to be applied with a cotton pad post-cleansing.

Nu Skin's research and development involves creative explanations of new products, such as using jello to symbolize gentleness of their cleansing device.

Lucas pursued a career in cosmetic science after initially considering pharmacy, and appreciates the creativity and innovation in his role.

The cosmetic industry is becoming more environmentally friendly, which aligns with consumer values and is a positive trend.

Advice for aspiring formulation chemists includes studying cosmetic chemistry and seeking internships or shadowing opportunities in the industry.

Transcripts

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Personal CareCosmetic ScienceFormulationTriphasic TonerSkin HydrationProduct DevelopmentInnovationEnvironmental FriendlyCareer AdviceIndustry TrendsNu Skin EnterprisesScience and Beauty